Time limited blog...

This is a time limited blog and although the content may change a bit, there will be no further entries. As its written very much in diary format you may unusually want to read it back to front, scroll to the bottom and read up :)

Almost there...

Flying over Lisbon

I just slept for about 4 hours and now its 1pm! This is going to be a very long day, I can feel it already... Once we land in Madrid in less than an hour, we connect to Heathrow for flight number 3 and then I have to find myself a train at about 1730 to arrive home about eleven tonight, 28 hours since leaving the hostel in Quito. The in-flight entertainment was horrible, "The Pacifier" and some Spanish film that looked as though it could have been ok but the sound was destroyed and was almost impossible to follow.

Actually, a reminder to myself, to try and avoid Iberia in the future. I've not been very impressed with them to be honest. Looking out the window I can see little thumb nail size towns and cities of the south of Spain. We're travelling at 11000 metres according to the monitor... Slowly dropping... Hm. 6am in Ecuador...

I'm tired and talking shit so I'll stop...

Going home...

About and hour away from Guayaquil, thousands of feet in the air

Its really funny how things go full circle. I arrived back this afternoon to the hostal to find Paul talking to the owners, who it turns out come from Medellin! Then, watching the crappy airplane TV show just now it did a feature on the Spanish works of Botero... The famous Colombian artist and sculpturist who lived in Medellin and whose collection and gallery we visited while we were there. Its hard to imagine that we were in Colombia just over a week ago, but even harder to take in the amazing 7 days we just spent in Ecuador.

I have always found it hard to put my feelings into words... but for the last 3 weeks my feeling right now can be summed up in one... Grateful. I'm not quite sure to who, there are too many... I'm not sure for what, there's so much... But I think in terms of knowledge and understanding of the world around me this has been the most amazing three weeks of my life.

Hot springs

Travelling towards Quito, Ecuador

We just spent 3 hours in the natural hot springs high up in the volcanic mountains about 90 minutes away from Quito... After such an active three weeks, but at the same time probably the most relaxing of my life, this was the icing on the cake.

Whilst relaxing in the baths, we had such interesting conversation again... From South American politics, to art as a means of engaging young people, from typical jokes and customs in our countries to stereotypes and social movements. I don't know, maybe its just because everything is so new but I feel with our friends here conversation never get boring or menial, my input levels of knowledge and understanding have grown intensly in the past 3 weeks, from just listening, and trying to understand what life can really be like outside of our capitalist cycle of life in a bubble. 9 to 5, 5 day weeks in call centres and Subway sandwiches being almost inevitable across the globe now, I'm so glad to have found somewhere still relatively untouched by this scarey phenomenon, yet fearful that its quickly becoming dominent here too.

Travelling back I am more relaxed than ever... Francisco is telling us about how a volcanoe,(Ililo) right next to his house is so active, it could blow anytime. There are scientists working there who could give them a weeks notice, but also it could go without warning and they would have 15 minutes to evacuate an entire city of 200,000 and another three cities and rural areas that would be at huge risk. There is no insurance or anything so they will lose everything, even potentially their lives. Yet its incredible that now as land prices drop so much one business man is building a huge commercial centre in the area with a multi screen cinema, knowing at any time it could be destroyed. Right now though, I am destroyed and finding it hard even to think... Of course in the most relaxing, natural and pleasant way... So I will stop typing for now....

4000 m above sea level

On the way to Papallacta (Potato Land)

A place founded by the Quichua people as a stop for travellers going between Quito and the jungle, (then a 4 day trip) we're on our way to Papallacta. The roads are completely misted over as we travel through valleys and forests... Whilst driving along the highest road in Ecuador (4000 m above sea level) we're talking about the Indian people, and how they work politically. Apparently their major agenda is poverty but there has been a division in these people due to some of them feeling very let down by the promises of the past president. Many of the indians are seeking power... Including the large organisations. Most people here are seeking survival, relief from poverty, jobs provision and need for better conditions, but politicians of the past so far have just given false promises to gain power. With politics the people don't believe anything changes, the poorest people in the jungle, affected by so many problems are the least engaged in politics.

Viva Ecuador!

Hostel Arco Del Sol, Quito, Ecuador

This trip is proving to be an incredible life experience... Today I thought would be highly uneventful, having arrived back from the jungle at 2am last night we got a good 7 hours sleep and at half nine we were downstairs for breakfast. We then made our way to our old internet of Papaya Net where I found out that we'd had a few problems with work stuff...

Then there was the football... Ecuador versus Argentina in the Latin American qualifiers for the World Cup. Not being the most avid football fan I was strangely drawn to this game... The bright yellow shirts all around me and the fondness I had developed for this country and its people really made the event an important specticle. In addition, they were the underdogs, against a strong Argentinian team, above them in the league.

Whilst uploading the photos of our jungle trip for friends and family I watched as the Ecuadorians mounted strike upon strike on the Argentinian defence but ended the first half with no goals. It wasn't until half way through the secind half that they managed to break through and score the first goal... A cheer broke out throughout the bar and I couldn't help but join in whilst watching the replay of a fantastic, and deserved goal.

It was in the dying minutes that they scored the second goal and the party began, passing cars beeping their horns in celebration and the seas of yellow and blue spreading from the Olympic stadium into the streets... and even now, 6 hours later, I can hear the Fiesta continuing, probably late into the morning.

But our night consisted of much more than football... Meeting up with our friends Ernesto, Carla and Fransisco who took us on a tour of some diverse, but really great bars of Quito and provided interesting, funny and equally diverse conversation and discussion. Their work is fantastic, taking me back to our dreams of Freestyle Junkies and the freedom of being an artist, someone so passionate about what they do, that they find every way to allow them to do it, most of all, through hard work and dedication. Tomorrow we will meet them again but for now I will sleep as its another early start on our Ecuadorian adventure.

Piranha's and Spiders

Deep in the rainforest, again under the protection of my mosquito net, Ecuador

Today has been a long, tiring but amazing day. This is undoubtedly going to be a long entry!

We began the day looking at Pigme monkeys in the trees, which we were lucky enough to see really close up with Neicer's telescope. On our usual trip down the river we saw Neotropic Cormorants, kingfishers and butterflies, and Stinky Turkeys everywhere - named because you can't eat them, the meat stinks. This is a strange bird because it has two stomaches like a cow and feeds on grasses and leaves. Scientists had to create a new family of bird for what they call a "prehistoric" animal.

Eco-tourism is now an important part of the local economy with over 300 external visitors a month visiting the National Park. An example is that the boat we use is hired from the local community and costs them about $5 a day to use but they charge the company $40. As he was explaining this, Neicer spotted a woodpecker and began telling us how they have a brain on springs in order to absorb the shock whilst pecking the wood. The ways in which animals evolve continues to amaze me... Dragonflys are all around the boat...

It was time to visit the indigenous people, to me one of the most interesting parts of the programme. We took a short boat ride along the river and then about an hours walk to the community. On the way, as always we were nature spotting, and the first thing our guide showed us was Cats Claw, named due to the huge thorns on the plant that resembled the claw of a cat. Apparently this has been used both in the jungle and in the Western world as a natural medicine. The properties of the plant develop a strong immune system in humans making Cats Claw a very effective relief, for patients sufforing from the Aids virus, and on occasion a cure for Prostate cancer.

Whilst continuing our walk there was a lot of activity in the trees through the jungle which were apparently a group of monkeys swinging from tree to tree. Although I could see the trees moving and hear the strange howls, I sadly didn't see any monkeys.

As we arrived at the community, the people almost didn't notice us walking in, but the children running around all smiled and waved, it suggested to me that they were now quite used to visitors. It had been pouring with rain and we were all wearing our huge green ponchos we'd been supplied with for such an occasion. Almost perfectly though, as we passed the first house and came out into an opening, the rain subsided and the sun shone strongly. There must have been a maximum of 6 constructions, but the one we headed for was brightly painted with the colours of the rainbow. As we walked coser it became obvious this was the school.

I'll never forget the kids faces as they came out to say hello, smiling and waving yet when we waved back, hiding behind their teacher, shy, but so happy. The teacher explained there were 16 students normally but that 5 hadn't turned in today. Venturing inside the school the kids were then all around us, with only a couple of them staying in their places, continuing their work trying to pretend we weren't there. The first thing that struck me was the smell, the kids were obviously not too worried about personal hygiene... But having not showered for 3 days, and given where we were, neither was I. The school was just one room, with children of all ages from 4 to 11 all being taught together. There was about 20 simple desks, a blackboard and a balser wood boat hanging from the ceiling... That was about it.

A suprising sight was in the far corner of the school, where a young girl who couldn't be older than 11, was cleaning a tiny baby. When we asked about this, the teacher explained that the baby was one of three kids that were there from one family who's mother had died and the father was out hunting, so the oldest of the family brought the baby with her so's not to miss school.

The classes in the school consisted of very similar subjects as those in most primary schools, but with language, it was a development from initially studying that of the community, then spanish as they got to 5 and 6 years old. English had been taught here before, but only by missionaries and volunteers who had come to help. The teacher there only spoke spanish so these kids wouldn't learn english unless they did it themselves or went to university in Quito, which for these kids was not a likely happening.

As we said goodbye to the community and took the boat ride back to the camp for lunch, we asked Neicer about marriage within these tribal communities. Although he said the marriages weren't arranged, I wasn't so sure... he explained that it was the male who decided his bride, and once chosen the female was expected to accept, provided of course they're not already "taken". Ok, so its not arranged by the parents but it still sounds to me like there is a distinct lack of choice for the women here!

The age of marriage is generally between 14 and 18 and it is expected the female will have children by the time they're 20. Apparently inter-breeding still exists which results in some mentally handicapped and deformaties, the most common of which is a 6th finger or toe. Our friend explained that, to the indians, this wasn't a bad thing as they didn't realise that it caused the deformaties and their concept of family is very different to ours. As many as 4 generations could be living together and all in small enclosed spaces, often with only one room.

After lunch we went piranha fishing. Paul seemed initially uninterested and when we heard and saw monkey movement he was quick to kick off his wellies and climb the nearest tree. Looking quite monkey-like himself he was speedily 20 meters up. Coming down of course, wasn't so easy and when he finally made it, he told me how he'd trodden on something soft, only to look down at a destroyed ants nest and hundreds of disgruntled ants crawlling over his bare foot. Given that many of the ants here carry poison or nasty bites he was lucky to return unscathed.

Meanwhile one of the Irish girls in our group had caught a piranha, a big, silver, mean looking piranha and Neicer held it, mouth open and teeth baring for photographs. I'd never imagined them to be so big, I was thinking James Bond where the thousands of tiny piranhas quickly consume bad guys... But these things were about 30cm in length and 20cm high, and teeth that looked like they could easily take a finger off.

Having seen a challenge, Paul was then back and ready to see if he could catch one for himself. Sure enough, 10 or so minutes later, he was getting a bite. I'm guessing by his reaction he was surprised because whipping the home made fishing rod out of the water I suddenly saw it flying through the air... Right towards my head! Its hard to describe what you feel with an angry, biting, razor-toothed fish flying through the air towards your face but of course my first instinct was to get out of the way. Jerking by body backwards I was relieved to see the fish pass by my nose only for it to hit the side of the boat next to me, dislodge itself from the hook and land at my feet.

In hindsight at this point I should have relaxed as despite the fish having a nasty bite, it was unlikely to get through the thick rubber boots I was wearing. Nevertheless I shit my pants as a pink piranha bounced around at my feet trying to get back to its aquatic home. After a minute or so, Neicer got a hold of it to once again get pictures, this time of Paul's prize catch. The first two piranhas were thrown back into the water, but the final one, and biggest of all, we kept for dinner.

Before dinner however, we had the most terrifying of times on our jungle experience... The night walk.

I'm not a fan of insects... In Newcastle spiders often freak me out, but here it was a different kind of spider, as big as my hand, sometimes poisonous, often hairy and always evil looking... And guess when they come out to play... When the sun goes down and all humans are left with is the light of their torches. And we were at a disadvantage from the start with only 3 torches between 6 of us... I was afraid... Very afraid.

On beginning our venture into the forest the first thing that hit me was the overwhelming noise of the nature. Crickets, tree frogs, cockroaches and all kind of other creatures screamed out as the people went home and the forest became theirs again. I began to wonder what I was doing here...

Into the thick jungle we continued and the noise got even louder... Every so often our train of terrified people were stopped when Niecer would spot a spider, huge cricket, lizard or bug and give us photo opportunities. Falling behind a bit and with no torch I was guided by the light from the guy behind me. I saw people stop up ahead but didn't hear why... As the people ahead carried on I almost caught up, constantly watching my feet so not to trip up or stand on something creeping it wasn't until I looked up that I realised what they'd stopped for.

A spider, almost the size of my hand, was about a centimetre away from my face, right in the centre of the thickest web I had ever seen.

At this point I freaked... Stopped for a minute to grab my breath, thank the guy behind me for shining the torch in the right place at just the right time, before walking around the web, and catching up with the others.

After an hour and a half we arrived at the waters edge where we were to be picked up. As we waited, Niecer spotted the shining eyes of a cymen... Or alligator. Only visible with Niecers strong torch and when looking right down its sight, the orange eyes looked like precious stones just above the waters surface. As Niecer tried to get closer the reptile quickly moved under water and out of site. He promised we'd see more tomorrow night, at which point we heard the noise of the boats engine and I was quite ready to get back to camp for dinner and sleep.

Nature and Neiser

In my hut, protected by my mosquito net, rainforest, Ecuador

Everything is green, a boat ride of 1.5 hours, Toucans, kingfishers, butterflies everywhere. Arrival at the huts and then out in the boat. Tale of an Anoconda eating a local last week, a lizard on the tree, tree bark is used as maleria treatment, poisenous shooting pipes still used by locals but most use rifles now. Fishing bat on the water as the sun sets on the lagoon, orchids and cactus's growing on trees.

Paul went to bed at 8pm. Night time conversation of natural jungle drugs, seeing the future and the things your family are doing. Simons a warp fan. Colombian danger due to guns and drugs in Lago Agerio. Simons mates dad was kidnapped and killed over oil. Manifestations didn't interest the indigenous people, sometimes Neiser feels like leaving the country as nothing is changing, contradicts the view I had of what the manifestations were doing. Congas ants are one of the most dangerous things in the jungle, make you very sick for 24 hours. Jaguars and Pumas are in the jungle but Neicer has only seen 3 times in 20 years. Terantulas in the hut roofs make it hard to get to sleep.... Loud noise of crickets and jungle activity.

Tired...

Entrance to the Cuyabeno National Park, Ecuador

We just arrived at the park entrance of the Cuyabeno park... we now have a boat ride... some notes:

Journey to the Jungle... No sleep, amazing sights, small communities, social centre, women washing clothes in the river, overturned bus, waterpipes and telephone wires following the road, thick jungle, from cold to so humid, politicians pictures on homes. Oil drilling plants dotted between communities.

Arrival in Quito

Hostel Arco Del Sol, Quito, Ecuador

Arriving on the plane in Quito was a breath-taking experience, at first we saw just mountains, some covered in deep forest, others in cloud and mist... But as we got closer and lower we saw the vast spread of urban sprawl located in the huge valley surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. Ernesto had told us that the airport was right in the city centre but I hadn't really taken in quite how much this was the case. Having landed we disembarked the aircraft to find houses surrounding us, something I'd never experienced in the tens of airports I'd visited. In the distance was a huge, white, snow covered mountain that we later found out was an active volcanoe... It was an incredible sight.

Ernesto was, as he'd promised, there to meet us as we came out of the International departures. He had also booked us into a hostel, where I lay now. This evening we went Ernesto's place for dinner, really fresh seafood, mussels, fish and fine chillean wine. The flat was incredible, greeted by artwork made by the guys and their friends including photography, painting and sculpture work. Ernesto explained that within their collective they regularly swap artwork to display in their houses.

The conversation as we ate was really interesting... The main topic was the recent manifestations and people's overthrowing of the president. I'd read a bit on this a few weeks before leaving but that was just as things were beginning so it was facinating to find out how the regular, large scale protests eventually led to the former president fleeing to Brazil. What was more incredible was that the demonstrations were mostly peaceful, and a lot of impact was made through the involvement of forms of artistic and cultural protesting.

There is a history of social movements here with a change of president on three occassions in the last seven years. Each time the manifestations were led by a different class of people, this time it was primarily the middle class, people sick of the bad policy making but the final straw being the presidents selection of cabinet members, all of whom were friends of his, and in the opinion of Ecuadorian people, completely unfit for the job.

Tomorrow we will meet with Ernesto again and arrange our mission to the jungle... So excited I hope I can sleep!

Star Wars... in Spanish

Somewhere between Bogota and Quito

It's been an interesting afternoon, not what I expected but nice. On arrival to Bogota airport we had to come out of the terminal for our connection, at which point Paul suggested (of all things) a trip to the cinema! Now when you go to the capital city of Colombia I know its not what you'd expect, but we were both tired and brain dead and the idea of sitting in front of Episode III was actually really appealing.

And we weren't dissapointed... Both avid fans of Star Wars we watched in awe at the darkness and intensity of the third and final chapter. Only complaint I had was that it was in Spanish! So I didn't understand much of the dialogue, but at least I could follow the story.

Following the film we ran for a taxi and made it through security in time to stop for a coffee before embarking the plane. I'm tired again, but my brain still very active... Thinking about many different things. It helps to have the brilliant blue, clear sky outside and the little fluffy clouds. I'll grab 20 minutes shut-eye and then we'll be in Quito for the next part of our adventure...

Goodbye Colombia

Medellin Airport

Sitting in Medellin airport its beginning to sink in what I've seen, the experience I've had and the people I've met... Its really been incredible. Visiting the area where Pablo Escobar grew up, the streets full of prostitutes and dealers, hearing about the evil work of the paramilitary and the incredible poverty. Yet I am sure I will return, one day... And find something better. There is a positivity in the people here, a feeling that with the new president things are improving. And given that they are some of the most welcoming, friendly and warm people I have met, I really hope for their sake that the optimism is met with even more action and change.

Now we fly to Bogota, to connect to Quito in Ecuador. I hope that I can get some sleep on the flight as I'm wiped out after a trip to Mango's nightclub last night for Vito's Birthday. The rainforests await us in Quito, as do our friends Ernesto and Fransisco. They were participants in the project and really great guys. They will meet us at the airport and be our guides for the first day or two. Hungry, tired but excited... They're calling our flight.